Mulberry silk fabrics can be difficult to sew. The fabric will tend to unravel depending on the weaving method used .
The softness of mulberry silk makes the fabric very slippery. The cutting and elaborate stitching are quite complicated. It is therefore important to use the right material to avoid ending up with holes and permanent tears on the fabrics.
Steps to sewing silk fabric
1. Preparing the necessary materials
has. The needles :
For hand sewing: Use extra fine needles, numbered between 8 and 12 with a diameter of 0.5mm. Prefer short, headless needles.
For machine sewing: Use extra fine needles with a diameter of 55/7, or Microtex needles n°60/8.
You will need to provide several needles.
b. Thread :
A silk thread is the best choice for your creations, but a viscose thread can also be suitable.
You absolutely should not use polyester thread. The latter could cause your fabric to bulge and deform.
You must ensure that the weight of the thread is suitable for the size of the needle eye.
vs. Tracing tools:
Chalk is not effective when dealing with silk. It will be very barely visible. The ideal would be to opt for an erasable marker.
Before tracing your fabric, make sure that the felt cleans well by testing it on a sample.
d. Weight :
You must provide weights to place on the fabric to prevent it from moving during marking and cutting.
e. Cutting tools:
Opt for a rotary cutter.
2. Preparing the fabric and the work surface
Silk tends to shrink after the first wash. It is therefore necessary to wash your fabric before working with it.
The first step will be to check the instructions on the care label to find out what type of washing, drying and ironing your fabric can handle.
Once the fabric has been washed and dried, it must be installed and stabilized on the sewing table, placing tissue paper underneath and placing the weights on top.
You will need a relatively large work surface to be able to spread your fabric completely.
If your work surface is too small, and the sides of your fabric hang in the air, it risks slipping and moving during your handling, which will impact the precision of sewing and cutting.
3. Cutting the silk:
The first thing to know is that you should absolutely avoid scissors; to cut your fabric, you should instead opt for a rotary cutter which will guarantee better precision.
When it comes to preparing fabric for cutting, there are three methods:
First method
This method involves starching the fabric. That is to say, to coat it with starch (use cornstarch diluted in water for example).
This technique, also called starching, will slightly stiffen your fabric and make it easier to cut.
The starch can then be removed with cold water.
Second method
The second method consists of spraying your fabric evenly with a stabilizer like Fabulon.
Be sure to place your fabric on the work surface before spraying the stabilizer.
The downside of these two methods is that your fabric may turn yellow when ironed.
To avoid this kind of inconvenience, try the starch and stabilizer on a sample first.
Third method
The third method, and the most classic of the three, consists of applying the following instructions:
-Lay tissue paper on your work surface.
-Lay your silk fabric on the tissue paper making sure the sides of your fabric are not hanging in the air.
-Place the weights on top of the fabric at regular intervals to prevent movement of the fabric.
-When cutting with a rotary cutter, cut both the silk fabric and the tissue paper underneath for added stability.
-Finally, do not cut several layers of fabric together.
4. Sewing
has. sew silk by hand
Be sure, in the same way as cutting silk, to prepare your work surface and place tissue paper underneath the fabric for added stability.
To sew silk by hand, you must use extra fine needles, numbered between 8 and 12 with a diameter of 0.5mm. It is best for the needles to be short and headless so as not to leave holes in the fabric.
Remember to wipe your needles well before using them to remove the oily coating and avoid staining your fabric.
It is also advisable to use a new needle for each new project and to change your needles regularly during the current project.
The rule for successful hand sewing silk is to sew slowly and double check before sewing each seam.
Removing a seam may leave permanent needle marks that cannot be smoothed out.
b. Machine stitch the silk
Be sure, in the same way as cutting silk, to prepare your work surface and place tissue paper underneath the fabric for added stability and to make sewing easier.
It's up to you to decide if you want to use the tissue paper to sew the first few stitches only, or if you prefer to use it during your entire sewing.
To sew by machine, you will need to use extra fine needles with a diameter of 55/7, or Microtex needles n°60/8.
Remember to wipe your needles well before using them to remove the oily coating and avoid staining your fabric.
It is also advisable to use a new needle for each new project and to change your needles regularly during the current project.
To successfully sew silk by machine, the first stitches must be sewn slowly by turning the handwheel, then the sewing speed must be moderate and the stitches checked regularly.
To get a nice result, it is advisable to build the points rather than pin them. When we work with a fabric as light as silk, we must ensure that the stitches are short and small. Ideally, your points should be between 12 to 16 with a diameter of 2.5, which represents 1in.
To have a better grip and to easily advance the fabric, you can stitch its end into the layers, in front of the presser foot in the seam allowance, using a large needle or an awl.
Sewing silk requires a lot of patience and precision due to the fluidity of this material.
By using the right equipment and the right techniques, the result can only be magnificent and well worth the time spent on it.
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